CMO PRODUCT SUPPORT

Posted by CMO Performance · September 13, 2026

CMO PRODUCT SUPPORT

Installation Guide · Troubleshooting · Contact Us

1. Installation Guide

Tools You Will Need

Torque wrench (required)
Jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks
Socket set matching your lug nut size
Wire brush and clean rag
Optionally: a friend to help hold the wheel

Step-by-Step Installation

Safety first. Park on flat ground, chock the opposite wheels, loosen the lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is on the ground, then lift and secure the car on jack stands.
Clean the hub face. Remove the wheel. Wire-brush any rust or dirt off the hub face and the center pilot so the spacer sits perfectly flush. A dirty hub is the #1 cause of vibration.
Dry-fit the spacer. Slide the spacer onto the hub studs. It should sit flat against the hub with no gap. Spin it slightly to confirm the bolt pattern lines up.
Secure the spacer. Reinstall the factory lug nuts (or supplied bolts, depending on your kit) and tighten finger-tight, then torque in a star pattern to the spec in the table below.
Mount the wheel. Place the wheel over the spacer studs and hand-start all lug nuts. Never use an impact gun to start threads.
Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the spec below. Do not lubricate the threads — install them clean and dry.
Re-torque after 25–50 miles and again after another 100 miles. Metal seats settle, and this step is critical for safety.

Torque Reference Chart

General guidelines for CMO kits. Always confirm with your vehicle manufacturer's specification — your owner's manual or door-jamb label is the final word.

Stud / Thread Size	Torque (ft-lbs)	Torque (Nm)
M12 x 1.5	75–80	102–109
M12 x 1.25	75–80	102–109
M14 x 1.5	85–100	115–135
M14 x 2.0	85–100	115–135
7/16"-20	75–80	102–109
1/2"-20	75–80	102–109
9/16"-18	125–140	170–190

Important: Do not use anti-seize or oil on the studs or lug nut threads unless your vehicle manufacturer specifically calls for it. Clean, dry threads give accurate torque readings.

2. Frequently Asked Questions

I feel a vibration after installing the spacers. Why?

First things first: make sure the spacer is seated flush on a clean hub and the lug nuts are torqued to spec (not just impact-wrenched), and re-check after 25–50 miles. If everything is seated and torqued correctly, the vibration is usually not the spacer itself — it's something that was already there, now magnified.

Here's why: a spacer pushes the wheel and tire outward, which lengthens the effective lever arm on your steering and suspension. That added leverage makes your steering more sensitive, so small issues that were hiding before the install suddenly become noticeable — things like worn ball joints, tired bushings, warped rotors, or a wheel that's out of balance. Nothing changed with those parts; the spacer just turned up the volume on symptoms you couldn't feel before.

We've been fitting spacers on vehicles for years, and this is what we've seen time and time again. So if you feel a vibration, we'd suggest having your wheel balance, ball joints, bushings, and rotors checked — nine times out of ten, that's where the answer is.

Can I reuse my factory lug nuts with spacers?

Only if the seat type matches. If your kit includes new lug nuts, use those — they are matched to the spacer studs. Factory nuts may use a different seat (conical vs. mag/shank) and can be unsafe if mismatched. If you are unsure, email us a photo of one nut and we will confirm.

Do the wheels stick out more after install?

Yes — the wheels move outward by roughly the thickness of the spacer (e.g., a 25mm spacer pushes each wheel out about 25mm / 1 inch). Check fender clearance and confirm your local laws on wheel protrusion before ordering.

Do I need an alignment after installing spacers?

Usually not. Spacers do not change camber, caster, or toe. If your vehicle was already misaligned, the spacers do not fix or worsen it.

The spacer does not sit flush on my hub. What should I check?

1) Rust or dirt on the hub face — clean it. 2) A retaining ring or hub dust cap interfering — some vehicles need it trimmed or removed. 3) The spacer is on the wrong axle end. If it still will not seat, stop and email us photos — do not force it.

How do I know the spacer fits my vehicle?

Match all three specs: bolt pattern (PCD), center bore, and thread pitch/stud size. Every CMO listing states these in the title and bullet points. You can also email us your year / make / model / trim and we will confirm fitment before you buy.

A part is missing or damaged. What do I do?

Email us your Amazon order ID, a photo of what's missing or damaged, and your full shipping address (Amazon doesn't pass delivery addresses along to us, so we'll ship straight from our warehouse). We'll send the replacement part at no cost — no need to return the whole product. See the contact section below.

3. Contact Us

Our support team gets back to you within 24 hours on business days. To help us fix things in one email, please include:

Your Amazon order ID
Your vehicle year / make / model
A short description of the issue, plus a photo if it's about missing/damaged parts or fitment
Your full shipping address if you're requesting a replacement part (Amazon doesn't share delivery addresses with us, so we'll ship straight from our warehouse)

Email: support@customadeonly.com
Brand: CMO / CustomadeOnly

CMO / CustomadeOnly wheel spacers are CNC-machined from forged 6061-T6 aluminum and individually quality-checked. Always inspect all hardware before installation and follow your vehicle manufacturer's torque specifications.

Need Help? Contact Customer Support

Amazon Orders

Visit www.amazon.com/your-orders
Find your product order in the list.
Click on "Contact Seller".
Include your Amazon Order ID number.

eBay Orders

Visit www.ebay.com
Click on "My eBay".
Find your product under your purchase history.
Click on "More actions".
Select "Contact seller".

Important Safety Information

CRITICAL: To avoid wheel wobble and the risk of broken studs, please read and adhere strictly to the following safety precautions:

Never modify the wheel adapters or spacers.
Never remove the factory-installed studs on the wheel adapters or spacers.
Never use an impact wrench for installation. Always tighten by hand tool.
Do not stack multiple adapters or spacers on a single wheel.
Ensure that the mating flange on the vehicle's rotor is completely clean and free of rust or debris.
Re-torque all lug nuts on the spacer/adapter after 25–50 miles of driving, and then again after 1,000–2,000 miles.
Use a thread-locking compound (thread locker) to ensure the nuts remain secure and prevent them from backing off.
Carefully follow the step-by-step installation instructions included below.

Disclaimer: The manufacturer assumes no liability for injury, damage, or repair costs resulting from improper installation or use. Users shall be held responsible for any mechanical issues or accidents caused by incorrect installation.

Wheel Spacer Fitment & Offset Notes

This spacer set includes open-ended lug nuts to secure the spacers onto your factory hubs.

Depending on your setup, the factory studs may extend past the surface of the wheel spacers. If this occurs, you must take one of the following actions:

Shorten the factory studs.
Ensure your wheels have open slots (cavities) between the mounting holes to accommodate the protruding studs.
Purchase and install a set of shorter factory lug bolts.

To avoid excessive loads on your vehicle's suspension components, it is highly recommended to maintain the vehicle manufacturer's original wheel offset. Excessive positive offset can be dangerous and can cause premature suspension component failure.

Step-by-Step Installation Instructions

Preparation: Following your vehicle owner's manual, properly raise the vehicle and support it using adequately load-rated jack stands. Never work on a raised vehicle that is supported solely by a factory emergency, floor, or bottle jack. Remove the wheels and inspect the rotors for any damage or cracks. If any damage is identified, do not proceed with the installation.
Clean the Surface: Remove any visible rust, scale, or debris from the mating flange on the vehicle's rotor. Inspect both the rotor and wheel mounting flanges for burrs, rivet heads, or other obstructions that would prevent the spacer from seating completely flush. Improperly seated spacers are hazardous, can cause adapter failure, and may lead to the loss of a wheel while driving.
Mount the Spacer: Mount the wheel adapter/spacer onto the vehicle's factory studs until it sits perfectly flush against the rotor's flange. Applying thread locker to the studs is highly recommended to reduce vibration risks. Install the included open-ended lug nuts using a hand wrench in a star pattern according to the torque specs below. Do not use an impact wrench, as it will damage the nuts.
Mount the Wheel: Place the wheel onto the adapter studs until the wheel mounting flange sits completely flush against the spacer's outer flange. Install the wheel's lug nuts onto the lugs. Tighten them to spec using a hand wrench in a star pattern.
Clearance Check & Re-torque: Check for proper tire clearance inside the wheel well. Turn the steering wheel fully from lock-to-lock to ensure there is no interference. If there is no contact, the vehicle may be lowered. Once the vehicle is on the ground under full load, recheck for adequate clearance.

NOTE: Remember to re-torque all lug nuts on the spacer/adapter after 25–50 miles of driving, and again after 1,000–2,000 miles.

Torque Specifications

Always tighten fasteners in the proper sequence (4-lug, 5-lug, 6-lug, or 8-lug star patterns) using a manual torque wrench.

Stud Size	Recommended Torque
M12 Stud	75–80 ft/lbs
1/2" Stud	75–80 ft/lbs
7/16" Stud	75–80 ft/lbs
M14 Stud	95–100 ft/lbs
9/16" Stud	95–100 ft/lbs

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